Now it registers zero and I have good idle but it will not register until it hits 60 and up. The window you saw in the image above pops up. Contact whomever sold you your system or Holley directly. It is simply for the benefit of the user. You can find those settings here: Handheld: Tuning > Advanced > Advanced Idle > Rampdown, Software: Idle > IAC Settings > IAC Ramp Down. No air should be able to pass. Genuine Walbro fuel pumps are virtually bullet-proof. In the datalog the engine is running at 1400 RPM, TPS is zero, IAC is zero, CTS is 185F but it's in Open Loop. other things that might cause the idle to faulter, but this is a good start. Seems to behave more better now. The Sniper EFI system looks at the closed-loop fuel compensation required to reach your target AFR. Let me be perfectly clear: If your engine will not drop below 1350 RPM with the idle speed screw turned all the way out then you have an air leak. Maybe give it a half-turn before you start it and then start and tweak. would correct it (as it has for a multitude of other drive-ability issues) but this one little glitch seems out of it's range. Your AFR is pegged lean. Holley Sniper IAC Problem 04-26-2018, 11:30 AM Hello. Now that you've installed at least four Snipers it is going to be imperative that you learn to create and read datalogs. The tps will not auto reset to zero. Holley Sniper EFI While confirming, in the handheld ensure that the Reference Angle is set to 57.5 and that the Inductive Delay is set to 100. No problems with either cold or hot starts. When the system is up and running the fuel pressure regulator inside the Sniper is making a rattling sound like a shaking a paint can. Try it! Sniper EFI Problems - Holley Performance Products Forums If either of these is not the case it must be remedied.After you have done this then you might want to involve Holley Tech Support about the TPS, or it may be easier/faster just to visit the local auto parts store and pick up a new TPS and install it. I didn't find your site until I was having trouble. At 0% it shouldn't be sucking any air through that port, correct? I can drive it a bit but pops through the throttle body when pulling out from a stop (4 speed) and sometimes in the exhaust out on the road. Can the return line be an issue?I have had 2 faulty gpa-4 255 walbro pumps go bad. Just getting it to act right at startup is a struggle. The RPM would increase for no reason. It sounds like you need a bit more of a fuel squirt on acceleration, Brett. All of the wiring exits below the rear fuel injector cover, for a completely stealth installation. Thank you. If you don't have a working coolant temperature sensor then it will never bring the idle speed down. This will tell us if the ECU thinks that it is in control of setting the idle or if it thinks that you are driving the engine speed with the pedal. Then you can take a close look at the IAC and see if it is opening. It will learn the fueling eventually either way, it's just that one might get you there a little faster.If the idle is fine at start-up but then increases after you depress the throttle then you might need to lower your IAC Hold Position a bit. The team at Holley has designed the perfect solution for your problems. My issue is that when Im in stop and go traffic, I can let off the clutch and the engine revs and doesnt quite want to come back to idle. Please give this a try and let us know how it works! Just add 5 or 10 degrees of advance and see if it doesn't idle better. Copyright 2017 Cyberspace Automotive Performance, Inc. All Rights Reserved. ChrisI finally got everything resolved. That will at least tell you something. Hello Chris. And since they really had an insanely-tight monetary and real estate budget in the Sniper EFI System, it is unlikely that the added something that wasn't absolutely necessary--and then forgot to use it..And you are spot on about the little Earl's gauge with optional -6 AN port. Really appreciate the amount of learning im getting off here. It wont fire up. If you hit the gas it pops & backfires through the throttle body. (Grease can sometimes do the same thing as a more permanent gasket sealer without making the removal of the air cleaner such a pain.). I hold my foot steady in place it does this in 5 second cycles and if i let go of Could you provide me with some things to check or some things to adjust? Ran 2 Holley carbs and an Edelbrock. I will confirm TDC with balancer but I have had balancer off and timed it before and after with same results. Or is there something else I should Also when ac kicks on it will idle down and stall. It sounds to me like it is way retarded.In the event that the timing is right then take a look at your AFR--the actual AFR, not the target. Now, in my lifetime of experience with Holley ECU's that seems unlikely, but this guy sounded really sharp and had nothing to gain by convincing me of his dilemma. And, hopefully, within those degrees you will find a place where you don't get the whistle. Installed sniper on 65 galaxie. Advanced throttle body injection systems capable of transmission control and more. It may take a few tries. Idle was around 1000 mark and iac 0. You might have a bad IAC, but you can also have a bad vacuum pod on the transmission. The Sniper EFI remote IAC (Idle Air Control) and plug is designed to gain installation clearance on some Sniper EFI 2x4 installations. Since that has long been corrected we have moved that information to the bottom of the article.). As soon as I got the new one installed and wiredit fired right up and did everything it was suppose to do with no issues. Yes, the sound coming out of your Sniper throttle body is a pulsation from the fuel pump that is pulsing the mechanical fuel pressure regulator. Idle IAC problems? - Holley Performance Products Forums The engine ran so good, I would have never suspected the Fuel Pressure to be an Idle Tuning is a very important part of tuning any EFI system, especially our self-learning units like Sniper or Terminator X EFI. Try it! I called support line he said he would have to look into it and call back. The weather in Ct has finally improved and I have put about 60 miles on the car with the Sniper system. If this is the case then I would look particularly close at the IAC hold position and IAC ramp start.Let us know what you find and what works for you! Thank you very much. But I think it is safe to say that you are now at a point were some manual tuning is a good idea. I have a feeling it's something simple but I thought I'd ask you first before I inadvertently change something that affects other areas. Seems like its too slow to grab idle when ac kicks on. Note that sometimes you can get into a back-and-forth situation. Featured Products Sniper EFI $7.07 - $2,457.95 470 Products View Parts author Staff Writer 1711 Posts An Article About Video tech Sniper EFI Videos Sniper EFI Tech Sniper EFI sniper Installation The car would idle, I could hit the gas rev the car up and it ran great I also noticed two nice black spots on my garage floor from the exhaust. I have now determined with the TPS the noise correlates with the opening of the secondary butterflies. The first place my eyes go when there is any issue with the idle is to the TPS value. I put sniper on in hopes to be able to just turn key and start without fumbling with pedal to keep it going and to correct idle drop when ac kicks on. We can not hit it at all, we hit the pedal abruptly, the engine gives a lot of excess fuel, the AFR gets super poor at first, the car stops, then the AFR gets super rich and the car runs until it cleans up. So as much as I can I have been taking off real slow and let it fall on itself to try to learn and its not learning its way out of it. In the wizard I set my Idle to 500RPM but it never got slower than 800RPM, if I run the wizard again and lower to 400 RPM then it never gets lower than 700RPM.After reading about the Idle Speed curver I checked its settings and found that the curve was 300rpm faster at every point over the temp range no matter what temp I had, I adjusted the curve to match what I put in on the wizard and now the RPM is correct, I'd say you have a bug in the wizard.Idle Speed > Idle Speed Curve: Here is where the lack of coolant temperature is going to affect you. But they are 100% committed to your satisfaction. Cycling the power to the Sniper EFI would cure the problem, but not prevent it from coming back. This will let you know at a glance if something is going awry with the fuel pump. Idle quality is great, RPM is good, sometimes IAC is now between 2 and 5 exactly where it should be. If there's any run time on your current setup the Sniper may have some bad learn data due to what appears to be timing issues. check out the. However I do have a couple of issues I hope you can help me resolve. Sniper EFI Idle Tuning - Holley Motor Life No big deal, just time to re-adjust! Free ground shipping regardless of order size! Hello Chris. Repeat until that stumble goes away, and then try a bit more throttle. Does anyone have photos of this additional return spring they installed? I'd really appreciate some help. I recently bought the car with the EFI system on it. Across the board, all of our customers say how impressed they were that it started and ran right out of the box just by following the simple installation instructions. We're having trouble with a Ford Maverick 302 V8, using ethanol. But I wanted to go ahead and answer this so that it would make sense to someone who might not go that route.I think the first thing I'd do is try another pressure gauge. :-). I would gladly engage with you to solve this but ultimately you are going to need to go through whomever you purchased the system if a warranty return is in order. My dad wanted to recheck the timing so I set the Static Timing at 15 and it runs perfect. Sorry for all the questions, new to the efi world. I think I figured some of my problems outI'll try to explain. Let me start with the engine not starting until you press the throttle. This is more of a bit of a reality check. When you key on, you will hear three distinct sounds: The ECU initializing the IAC, the fuel pump priming, and the injectors firing their prime shot. Now that you've got your IAC set I'm going to recommend that you run your setup wizard again, which will reset the ECU to the default settings. Use the idle speed screw to set the idle at a comfortable warm-up speed. The distributor was loose. If you go too low then it may stumble or even stall when coming off of throttle. Copyright 2022 Holley Performance Products, Inc. All right reserved. After doing TPS reset it starts fine but when you give it some gas it hangs at 1500 and will not return to idle. Have you ever experienced a high idle once the engine reaches 200 degrees?Ive set my idle the way you said and it works great until the engine reaches 200 degrees. Be sure to re-enable it once you get your idle tuned. Holley EFI 543-105 Idle Air Control Motor That is not the way to go. The TPS will go red with a -15 and the AFR reads heating for a split second, then the idle kicks up to 2000RPM. As I said I didn't buy from you so you don't owe me anything. If your fuel pressure is at or about 60 PSI then visually inspect the barrels of the throttle body while having someone key on the Sniper. I straightened that out, got it running and that's where it goes downhill. This software is going to allow you to open both the configuration file and the datalogs that you create, overlay them and you can get a much better idea of what is happening. Chris, I recently installed my Sniper and have an intermittent idle problem. This was an issue in the earliest version of the Sniper firmware. One additional wrap on the secondary coiled shaft spring is all that's necessary. It's not necessary to drive it that way. Second--even in the HP and Dominator systems where a fuel pressure sensor can be dalogged and displayed, the fuel pressure is not fed back into the algorithm. I went on the good ole interweb and found your website which was VERY helpful! As I would slow down for a stop sign or stop light, the car would run really rough and the idle did not want to come down. If you are using your Sniper EFI System to control timing, navigate to Tuning > Advanced > Advanced Idle > Idle Spark and ensure that the Idle Spark Enabled is set to Disabled. When I see that your TPS is 1%, that tells me that you may have an RFI problem. Idle quality is great, RPM is good, sometimes IAC is now between 2 and 5 exactly where it should be. Thanks for the great question! This value is itself enough to raise the idle a bit. What can I do? If no air is passing (and the idle doesn't drop) then your IAC is working. Once we recognize that, the next step is to narrow down all possible sources of additional air until we discover the cause.Start by keeping an eye on your IAC number. I appreciate the help youve given to everyone as it continually helps me! back upthe RPMs shoot up to anywhere between 1500 and 2000 and they will not get Keep in mind that at 60 miles the I've been messing around for a bit trying to eliminate any possible vacuum leaks. After only running for about 15 minutes or so the system starts to fail stalling the motor. Bolt-on carburetor style EFI for your classic car or truck. I think that your Sniper system is working fine but would definitely check ouf the fuel pump. Then, when you experience the high idle, note if the IAC number has increased. After pumping the pedal a few times at different times it dropped to zero and started to work. The tps has slotted holes, can you adjust it to get to zero? To start viewing messages, select the forum that you want to visit from the selection below. It could be that the air flow across the secondaries as they are opening is creating that whistle but that isn't commonly the case.Did you check for leaks around the gasket of the air cleaner? Running the vacuum advance and of course I time it disconnected. As you have noted, each time the idle goes up. Due to when the pump i'm using now makes a loud howling noise when it gets ran for awhile and it gets at a 1/4 tank of fuel or less. And yes, monitoring the fuel pressure is the right answer. How To Adjust Iac On Holley Sniper You can adjust this number up or down but there is really no need to change it unless the car is stalling.The sucking sound is just what happens when the Sniper EFI System is paired with certain intake manifolds. And the only way to be positive about that is with a gauge.Unfortunately, the Sniper does not provide an input for an electronic sender so the next best thing is an analog gauge. Also what would you say a desired idle should be for a 3 speed automatic ford? it will jerk and rpm will go up and down and AFR will be around 20 : 1 or more or less. It would be possible to set up a 1D or 2D table and do something like this, so if you've gotten into these advanced setups then that would be another thing to check.If neither of these work then I'd recommend that you do a data log of the engine idling as the temperature is reaching and then exceeding 200 degrees. :-DStill, I hate to leave someone hanging so I'll try to help. At some point you come upon problems that evade the easy answers and this is a good example. Im thinking a faulty TPS. Covered the IAC port and set idle for 850 ish. When you key on, you will hear three distinct sounds: The ECU initializing the IAC, the fuel pump priming, and the injectors firing their prime shot. It might be necessary to insulate or re-route your fuel lines if this can't be solved any other way. I had that problem, right out of the box it would not power up, sent it back in, had defective hand held. I think that this time around you will find that it starts and idles really well and only gets better from there. Glad to hear that you have timing control enabled, Gary. Both Sniper and trans controller grounds were direct to the battery ground, as they should be. Based on your situation above as well as some of other experiences, I recognized that I needed to improve my tuning procedures above to better explain what steps to take if that 10-step process doesn't completely solve the problem. I followed the instructions and set the IAC to 2-9% when warm with idle at 850 RPM. That is not something I'd ignore. If you use your handheld to go here: It drops about 200rpm when clutch engages. When I shut it off then start it Also ensure the TPS Position returns to zero at idle, & the IAC Hold Position isn't setup too high. Once you have done this the challenge is to create a datalog that includes the ":snap" you describe. :-). Sniper EFI Initial Startup and Troubleshooting - Holley By going into the IAC settings and turning off the Idle Spark control and setting Target Idle to 750 RPM my idle issues are gone, and it now returns to desired idle after cruise. While it is not mandatory, I recommend the Sniper EFI CAN-to-USB Adapter to move the data between your Sniper EFI and your PC rather than trying to do this via the SD card. If i adjust the throttle plate screw in to bring IAC in to proper range say around 7 the engine is running around 2000 rpm. I have a bone stock 350 that I installed a Sniper on and had the same whistle noise, presumably from air going past the butterflies. First, I'm kind of insistent about not changing any of the default settings unless the vehicle absolutely will not cooperate enough to drive/learn, and only then if you have a specific understanding of the problem and a specific solution. As I have it set right now, my idle at park is in the high 700s and my desired idle in gear is set at about 700 cold (80 degrees) and gradually lowers to 590 once engine temp reaches 160 degrees. He thought that something was wrong because when he set the idle 50 RPM below his target the resulting IAC postion was far too big. Hey Tommy, we've got at least one thing in common. If I'm driving along and pull up to a light and leave it in gear it idles just fine but it seems not to be able to compensate if I put it in neutral and then back and drive. The person I bought it from said he never could get it to run for more than a few seconds. My problem is low idle. New install, when in setup wizard TPS says 90 percent and I checked the linkage and butterflies. We do that but most places don't. When you first posted this I had no idea how to respond. Please let us know how this works out for you! Holley documentation and videos didn't work and the $300 I paid for "expert" tuning didn't work either. You are aware of the idle-up problem. Both answers you've received greatly oversimplify the truth in favor of the answerer. The last 2 times have been shorter and one time the high idle was around 1400, this time around 1100. It is made by one of the biggest names in fuel filters and sold under the Parts Master label so it is quality and great price in one. check out the. EFI Systems based on Holley's world-class Dominator and HP ECU's. Is this an issue to worry about? If you can track specific engine coolant temperatures where the engine stumbles and dies that would be a good place to start. Sorta similar to a carb having the idle mixture set incorrectly (rich) or the idle speed too low. During after-start idle, the idle will jump up to about 70% if the engine is cold, stay there about 4 seconds and then ramp down to the target idle speed for the current engine temperature. (If you do this you will need to reset the -40 degree setting mentioned at the top of this article. After the start process, If the idle speed is higher than the target idle then the IAC should begin closing as long as the TPS is below 2%. I'm new to EFI and have no idea what to try next. Have you confirmed your fuel pressure at idle is 60 PSI? If you look down and your TPS is 2% then either your throttle is stuck slightly open (which itself will cause the idle-up) or RFI riding on the TPS signal has caused the ECU to see the throttle as open and, as a result, open the IAC to the hold position. Your closed loop compensation is adding a full 50% fuel. IAC Testing Procedure for EFI Systems
